Archive Appetizer: Chiara Barzini's Aqua

I read Chiara Barzini's Aqua with great intrigue, having the pleasure of knowing the author. This familiarity added an extra layer of warmth to an already captivating narrative, in which Barzini famously lets fate set her course on a winding road trip with two of her best pals, exploring the historic (and somewhat insane) Mulholland Aqueduct project to bring water from the mountains 233 miles away to Los Angeles.

The book also intrigued me because water and food insecurity are inseparable. When access, availability, and basic rights to these resources are challenged, they don't just spark wars—they become weapons.

This sense of fragile, manufactured illusion becomes even more striking when you look at the fundamental absurdity of California’s water crisis. Aqua uncovers an inescapable truth: a massive, sprawling civilization was erected in a region that has always been fundamentally water-deprived, operating on the hubristic assumption that nature could be humanely engineered to solve the deprivation, a la John McPhee’s The Control of Nature.

Today, a toxic cocktail of long-term systemic mismanagement and climate change has pushed the city — and, moreover, the state — to its breaking point, painfully echoing the "Limits to Growth" theory—the reality that infinite consumption cannot sustain itself on a finite planet. Watching a metropolis like Los Angeles constantly lurching from one catastrophic drought (or wildfire or atmospheric river phenomena), along with various infrastructure failures, makes it feel less like a series of modern emergencies and more like an inevitable destiny. It is a stark reminder that when you build an “empire” on a landscape which is inherently a semi-arid, Mediterranean ecosystem, the crisis isn't an accident; it's inevitable.

Her voice shines through in several standout ways. She highlights the vibrant, nostalgic energy of 1960s and 70s hippie-cult California through a personal lens—not just as an observer, but as someone whose own identity is deeply entangled with its myths, its magic, and its modern fractures. This history is established by her injection of intimate personal anecdotes, seamlessly weaving her roles as a mom, a daughter, a friend, a wife, and a writer into the larger geographical crisis. You can see how much the beloved Joan Didion influenced her writing and psyche. There are so many great bits about the culture of Los Angeles - from the movie Chinatown, Father Yod of the Source, to the Manson murders.

As one reads Aqua, her yearning for a Los Angeles that no longer exists, much like its water security, “drips” from the pages. In the book, it seems she is beginning to reckon with that loss. I wrote about yesteryear California back in 2024, when we spent part of the summer in Los Angeles (and so did my partner in his blog). As I wrote: “We always thought we might return to live on the West Coast, but our vision of what we think California should be is over, finished. It went in another, less interesting and unauthentic direction long ago.” It is hard to admit when your home is no longer your home, and Barzini, in her journey to trace the aqueduct that quenched LA, seems to be realizing that through various moments she witnesses and personally experiences. Barzini admits to being wooed by Hollywood, the fame, the dazzling and glossy illusion of the American Dream. In A Field Guide to Getting Lost, Rebecca Solnit captures this ethos, describing a "glittering, amnesiac Los Angeles"—a city devoid of communal memory that eagerly incinerates its own history for the sake of perpetual reinvention. Reading Barzini, one feels a distinct melancholy as she comes to terms with the fact that those pipe dreams will never be realized.

For example, what genuinely broke my heart was her side story regarding the screenplay adaptation of her previous novel, Things That Happened Before the Earthquake. Watching her recount her agonizing experience with the Hollywood movie machine—which ultimately culminated in a crushing rejection from a famous director—was nothing short of visceral. She lays bare the fickle, cold-hearted nature of an industry that treats artists as largely disposable, and while the outcome itself wasn't terribly surprising given how Hollywood operates, it was brutal to read someone navigate that system (and one she is already connected with). Yet, it serves as a powerful thematic anchor for Aqua, mirroring the broader reality of California itself: a place built entirely on beautiful, mirage-like illusions that so often leave people “parched.”

However, looking at the book objectively as a non-fiction reader and a scientist, I found a couple of areas where I craved a bit more depth. When diving into complex regional water security and access issues, I generally prefer a heavier reliance on hard facts and thorough citations (and maybe more interviews with experts), whereas Aqua leans much more toward an impressionistic, narrative style, leaving some data points feeling a bit sparse or even anecdotal.

Given that Barzini considers Rome and Los Angeles her two homes, the narrative misses a powerful opportunity to undertake a deeper, more rigorous comparative lens—one that fully unearths how water scarcity and failed dreams uniquely intersect across these two landscapes. Exploring how both of these grand worlds grapple with their own structural and cultural droughts could have elevated the book's narration to even greater heights.

Archive Appetizer: The Last Great Dream

As many of you dear readers know, I am working on a book about the U.S. counterculture movement and its impact on food systems. For me, summer is all about reading, and I am trying to read some books to help with my writing.

So, I took on The Last Great Dream: How Bohemians Became Hippies and Created the Sixties by Dennis McNally. The book explores the generational and cultural evolution that transformed mid-century American bohemianism into the full-blown counterculture movement of the 1960s.

Rather than viewing the “hippie movement” as a sudden, overnight cultural explosion, McNally argues that it was the result of a slow, multi-layered accumulation of artistic and social grassroots resistance and endurance. The narrative traces this evolution across major cultural hubs such as San Francisco, New York, and Los Angeles, showing how small groups of brave societal outsiders gradually built an alternative arts universe that eventually altered mainstream American consciousness. This decentralized network served as a breeding ground for new ideas.

The heart of the book details the interconnectedness of various multi-disciplinary underground movements that flourished in the shadow of post-WWII conformity. McNally weaves together a tapestry of micro-histories, illustrating how beat poetry, avant-garde classical music, experimental theater, jazz, and the underground press all cross-pollinated. Iconic figures such as Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, Ken Kesey, John Cage, and Lenny Bruce are highlighted not just for their individual brilliance but also as foundational pillars of a shared philosophy. This philosophical foundation rejected rigid traditional American values—such as aggressive consumerism, militarism, and puritanical social structures—in favor of creative expression, communal living, radical peace, and expanded consciousness through psychedelics.

The book's chronological arc begins with the roots of the San Francisco Poetry Renaissance in the 1940s and 1950s, steadily builds through the early 1960s as these disparate artistic movements coalesce, and culminates in the defining mass gatherings of 1967. McNally positions the historic Human Be-In at Golden Gate Park and the legendary Monterey Pop Festival—which launched icons like Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin—as the peak flowering of this "last great dream." In doing so, he captures a unique, fleeting moment of powerful idealism before the era's commercialization set in, providing a definitive, un-nostalgic roadmap of how a few fringe outcasts successfully reshaped modern global culture.

What was great about the book is that McNally spends time on lesser-known nodes—like the Venice Beach boho hub, London fashion designer Mary Quant, or the avant-garde experiments at Black Mountain College (such a fascinating place)—he constructs a much truer, more diverse map of how the movement actually formed. He also dismantles the notion that the hippie movement was an overnight explosion. Instead, he shows how it was a slow, multi-decade evolution.

Because McNally tries to weave together beat poetry, jazz, experimental theater, electronic music, and the underground press across multiple cities, the narrative frequently fragments. Fascinating subplots or complex figures are often squeezed into a few paragraphs or pages before the book rapidly shifts focus, leaving the reader with a text that occasionally feels more like an "Underground 101" encyclopedia than a deeply analytical history.

McNally states that these bohemians created the sixties, but he occasionally overlooks the deeper socio-economic analysis that explains why these fringe artistic movements successfully broke through to the mainstream, while earlier bohemian movements remained isolated. Lastly, the book focuses intensely on the era's cultural and artistic theater, which means the heavy, gritty political machinery of the 1960s gets pushed to the sidelines. The civil rights movement, the intricate anti-war political organizing, and the structural backlash from institutional power are treated as background noise rather than forces that actively shaped—and were shaped by—the bohemian-to-hippie pipeline.

Book Review: Food Intelligence

While traveling to North Carolina and away from the daily grind of work, I was finally able to read a book—a miracle in itself! I chose Food Intelligence, co-authored by Kevin Hall and Julia Belluz. The fact that the book is written equally by both takes a bit of getting used to, especially since they use the third person when referring to themselves. I am not sure it totally works, but I am also not sure how else one would co-author such a book.

The book is incredibly informative, particularly regarding Dr. Kevin Hall’s research. Hall is a biophysicist and was a senior investigator at the NIH until 2025. He is renowned for his highly rigorous "metabolic ward" studies, which often house participants in clinical settings where every calorie, movement, and biological secretion is precisely measured.

Kevin spent years at the NIH conducting clinical trials to study metabolism, weight loss, and the impact of specific foods (particularly ultra-processed foods) on body weight. In one of his most famous studies, he found that when people ate ultra-processed foods, they spontaneously consumed about 500 extra calories per day and gained weight. Conversely, when on an unprocessed diet, they lost weight. He argues that the energy density and hyper-palatability of these foods—driven by the processing itself—trigger weight gain, rather than just "too many carbs" or "too many fats."

In fact, he has conducted trials comparing low-carb and low-fat diets, finding that a low-fat diet actually resulted in slightly more body fat loss than an equal-calorie ketogenic diet. In essence, "a calorie is a calorie" is a fairly accurate rule. However, he notes that the old "3,500-calorie deficit equals one pound of weight loss" rule is not linear. He also studied contestants from The Biggest Loser and showed that, even years after the show, their metabolisms had slowed significantly more than expected for their new body size. This "metabolic adaptation" (or "starvation response") persisted even when they regained the weight.

His departure from the NIH (which clearly happened after the book was published) was highly publicized and controversial, as he cited a breakdown in scientific integrity and political interference as his primary reasons for leaving. It sounded like he was in the middle of several trials at the time, which is a real shame for the field.

While the book is an excellent primer on metabolism, I wish it had tackled GLP-1 drugs head-on. These medications are the "missing link" for much of Hall’s research. By mimicking natural hormones, drugs like Ozempic and Mounjaro do three things:

  • Mute "Food Noise": They signal the hypothalamus to dampen the brain's reward centers.

  • Slow Digestion: They delay gastric emptying, so you feel full longer.

  • Stabilize Blood Sugar: They manage insulin and glucagon to prevent the spikes that drive hunger.

This leads to a natural calorie deficit and—most importantly—a shift away from the ultra-processed foods Hall spent his career studying.

The authors lean heavily into the "toxic food environment" theory—the idea that our system, not our willpower, is the problem. I agree 100%. But it leaves me wondering: if we "solve" the hunger signal with a pill, will we still have the political will to fix the food system? Or will fixing the environment become a non-issue once the price of these drugs drops? We are in the middle of a massive "live experiment."

In the final chapters, they pivot to the wider food system. I was interested to see how a biophysicist and a journalist would frame the food system’s contribution to nutrition and metabolism. While they got the big picture right, the analysis felt a bit shallow. It didn't feel like it added much to the book's core value, and they seemed to throw softballs at potential solutions to the issues Kevin witnessed and analyzed during his trials.

Overall, Food Intelligence is a truly interesting read about the state of weight-loss research.

Custodians of our memories

If you want to read a food book this year, read Eating to Extinction: The World's Rarest Foods and Why We Need to Save Them by BBC food journalist Dan Saladino. The book is about the rich biodiversity found around the planet and how humans have used that biodiversity to feed the world's population. Saladino illustrates how important this diversity is for our nourishment and sustaining the vast cultures and traditions that humans have passed on from one generation to the next. Not only is Saladino a wonderful storyteller, but the story he is telling is one of the most important in food systems today. He writes:

"We cannot afford to carry on growing crops and producing food in ways that are so violently in conflict with nature; we can't continue to beat the planet into submission, to control, dominate and all too often destroy ecosystems. It isn't working. How can anyone claim it is when so many humans are left either hungry or obese and when the Earth is suffering?"

Saladino structures the book across the main food groups — fruits, vegetables, grains, cheese, meat, seafood, alcohol, stimulants (coffee and tea), sweets, and wild foods. He discusses the importance of these food groups and their role in food security. He provides us with lush, visceral vignettes of particular places, exceptional people, and distinctive cultures uniquely trying to grow, raise, and nurture certain traditional varieties of these foods. You get a glimpse of how the hunter-gatherer Hadza hunts for honey in Tanzania. You learn how sheep meat, known as Skerpikjot, is preserved in the fragile ecosystem of the Faroe Islands. You feel the pressure of how Sicilians grow the vanilla orange amid the weight of the Cosa Nostra. You sympathize with the Syrians amid a protracted conflict who attempt to preserve their traditional sweet, Halawet el Jibn, made of war-threatened ingredients like pistachio. You realize that winemaking began in Georgia using traditional pots, known as Qvevri, a practice not done anywhere else in the world.

These stories are wonderful, but they are punctuated with startling and tragic statistics:

  • 50% of all our seeds are in the hands of 4 companies.

  • Of the roughly 6,000 different plants once consumed by humans, only nine remain major staples today.

  • Three crops—rice, wheat, and corn—provide 50% of all our calories.

  • 70 billion chickens (of roughly the same breed and ironically named "chicken of tomorrow") are slaughtered annually.

  • 30 million bison roamed the great plains of the United States, all to be decimated at the hands of the white settlers.

  • 95% of milk consumed in the United States comes from a single breed of cow.

  • 90% of soybean grown in North and South America is genetically modified.

  • 50% of all the world's cheese is made with bacteria or enzymes made by one company

  • The giant Pacific bluefin tuna is down 97%. Yes, 97%.

  • Only 2% of farmers are African American.

  • We only consume 2% of barley that is grown. The rest is used to make beer or fed to animals.

  • Speaking of beer, 25% of beer is produced by one brewer.

You learn about the heroes, like Vavilov, who spent and gave their lives conserving and preserving precious seeds, specific varieties, preservations, and processing of foods as a way to say, "remember us." We were here. They were and are the custodians of the biodiversity across the planet. They are also the custodians of our memories and humanity.

As Saladino escorts you around the world, I imagined these vignettes being turned into a beautiful documentary demonstrating the vast diversity that exists on the planet—as humans, as foods, and as cultures. As Saladino expressed, we must embrace diversity in all its forms: biological, cultural, dietary, and economical. Having more diversity across the range of agriculture systems and landscapes is vital. Capturing all this diversity on film, as the book does, could be a way to preserve these moments, memories, and the history of it all. So, we never forget what we once had.

While the book is inspiring, every chapter ends with a common tragic theme – and I am not giving anything away because it is in the book's title: Extinction. You realize how fast these ways of life, these foods, these cultures, and traditions are disappearing. Our world and food systems are transforming at a speed that is hard to comprehend and capture, and the loss along the way is disturbing. There are many reasons for this extinction, but the major ones are agricultural change, loss of habitats, disease, economic forces, hangovers and continuations of colonization, and conflict.

As Saladino expressed, these endangered foods will not become the mainstay of diets, nor should they. But they have essential and assorted roles to play; if we don't use them, we will lose them. In reference to a chapter on O-Higu, a soybean grown on the island of Okinawa made into unique tofu, "O-Higu might be an insignificant bean. But to many Okinawans, after colonialism and occupation, its return feels like an act of resistance and a celebration of who we are." Many traditions in holding onto these foods are worthy; they involve intimate knowledge, special skills, and lots of care and labor. It is not a simple path forward.

Our world and food systems are transforming into a homogenized vat of staleness. For many, saving these foods and the biodiversity that makes up these foods and our diets is not worth the effort as we move through the world at warped speed. Some argue that this savior complex is romantic and precious, and we should instead focus on the potential for technology and innovation. Growth, growth, growth. Call me sentimental, but I worry about solely following this path and what is lost along the way.

Last night, I watched Chris Marker's visceral Sans Soleil film. In it, the narrator said something that sticks with me:

When filming this ceremony, I knew I was present at the end of something.

Magical cultures that disappear leave traces to those who succeed them.

This one will leave none; the break in history has been too violent.

I want to witness the traces. I want to remember. What is the point of living in this world without cultures and all the food that punctuates those cultures? We must, as global citizens, decide what kind of world we want to live in and figure out what is worth saving. To me, it is the whole lot. I want to save it all—every food, every human, every animal, and every piece of culture. This is what makes our world interesting. As Saladino said, "the Hadza remind us that there are many ways to live and be in the world." I am hanging onto my hopes that the incredible array of people curating these endangered foods will remain the custodians of not only our memories but of our food traditions for the future.

The NOT Best of 2021 Best Book List

I am often asked for recommendations for mainstream (less academic) books about food politics and systems. There are so many out there, but here are some that I really enjoyed. As some of you know, I am a bit insane about books (my better half is a book publisher). I also like non-food books and spoke about that on The Reading Lists. I also wrote two of my own books last year: Can Fixing Dinner Fix the Planet? has been published by Johns Hopkins University Press. Global Food Systems, Diets, and Nutrition: Linking Science, Economics and Policy has been published by Palgrave MacMillan. Anyways, here it goes…

Classic food politics books by well-known writers:

Book addict…

Food Politics by Marion Nestle

Soda Politics by Marion Nestle

Unsavory Truth by Marion Nestle

The Omnivore’s Dilemma - Michael Pollan

Niche food books:

Salt by Mark Kurlansky

Cod by Mark Kurlansky

Four Fish by Paul Greenberg

Hippie Food by John Kauffman

Untold History of Ramen by George Solt

The Story of Sushi by Trevor Corson

The Secret Life of Lobsters by Trevor Corson

Sweetness and Power by Sidney Mintz

America’s food system books:

Salt Sugar Fat by Michael Moss

Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser

Drive-Thru Dreams: A Journey Through the Heart of America’s Fast-Food Kingdom by Adam Chandler

Perilous Bounty: The Looming Collapse of American Farming and How Can Prevent It by Tom Philpott

The Secret Life of Groceries by Benjamin Lorr

Diets, health, and ethics-related books:

The Way We Eat Now by Bee Wilson

Weighing in by Julie Guthman

How to Eat by David Katz and Mark Bittman

Eat, Drink and Be Healthy by Walter Willett

In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan

Vitamania by Catherine Price

Gulp by Mary Roach

Food justice books:

You and I Eat The Same by Chris Ying

We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time by Jose Andres

Black Food Matters by Hanna Garth

Food Justice Now! By Joshua Sbicca

The Ethics of What We Eat by Peter Singer

Food and climate change books:

Food 5.0: How We Feed the Future by Robert Saik

Future Foods by David McClements

Politics of Food by Dani Burrows and Aaron

Full Planet, Empty Plates by Lester Brown

The Fate of Food by Amanda Little

Slow Catastrophes by Rebecca Jones

International food politics books:

The End of Food by Paul Roberts

Mass Starvation: The History and Future of Famine by Alex De Waal

Will Africa Feed China by Deborah Brautigam

Food Politics by Robert Paarlberg

The Wizard and the Prophet by Charles Mann

The Last Hunger Season by Roger Thurow

Eating NAFTA by Alyshia Galvez

Just Food by James McWilliams

Classic food politics books by well-known writers:

Book addict…

Food Politics by Marion Nestle

Soda Politics by Marion Nestle

Unsavory Truth by Marion Nestle

The Omnivore’s Dilemma - Michael Pollan

Niche food books:

Salt by Mark Kurlansky

Cod by Mark Kurlansky

Four Fish by Paul Greenberg

Hippie Food by John Kauffman

Untold History of Ramen by George Solt

The Story of Sushi by Trevor Corson

The Secret Life of Lobsters by Trevor Corson

Sweetness and Power by Sidney Mintz

America’s food system books:

Salt Sugar Fat by Michael Moss

Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser

Drive-Thru Dreams: A Journey Through the Heart of America’s Fast-Food Kingdom by Adam Chandler

Perilous Bounty: The Looming Collapse of American Farming and How Can Prevent It by Tom Philpott

The Secret Life of Groceries by Benjamin Lorr

Diets, health, and ethics-related books:

The Way We Eat Now by Bee Wilson

Weighing in by Julie Guthman

How to Eat by David Katz and Mark Bittman

Eat, Drink and Be Healthy by Walter Willett

In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan

Vitamania by Catherine Price

Gulp by Mary Roach

Food justice books:

You and I Eat The Same by Chris Ying

We Fed an Island: The True Story of Rebuilding Puerto Rico, One Meal at a Time by Jose Andres

Black Food Matters by Hanna Garth

Food Justice Now! By Joshua Sbicca

The Ethics of What We Eat by Peter Singer

Food and climate change books:

Food 5.0: How We Feed the Future by Robert Saik

Future Foods by David McClements

Politics of Food by Dani Burrows and Aaron

Full Planet, Empty Plates by Lester Brown

The Fate of Food by Amanda Little

Slow Catastrophes by Rebecca Jones

International food politics books:

The End of Food by Paul Roberts

Mass Starvation: The History and Future of Famine by Alex De Waal

Will Africa Feed China by Deborah Brautigam

Food Politics by Robert Paarlberg

The Wizard and the Prophet by Charles Mann

The Last Hunger Season by Roger Thurow

Eating NAFTA by Alyshia Galvez

Just Food by James McWilliams

Can Fixing Dinner Fix the Planet?

Two years ago, I embarked on the writing of my very first book. Coming from a field of expertise that values peer-reviewed scientific publications more than books, I did not think it was in the cards to consider authoring a book about my discipline and my experience working in that discipline. But here we are, and tomorrow, my JHU Press Wavelength series trade book, Can Fixing Dinner Fix the Planet? will be released. The pandemic helped, unfortunately. It nudged me to sit still and put pen to paper.

The book investigates the interactions among food systems, diets, human health, and the climate crisis. It draws on my experiences (along with my team and many colleagues) working and living in Africa, Asia, Europe, and the Americas. It describes how food systems must change to slow and reverse the stark trends we see with increased hunger and obesity, catastrophic climate change, and inequities. The book draws attention to the idea that the very nature of food and food systems can play a significant role in fixing these vexing challenges and bring communities together.

Food books abound—cookbooks by celebrity chefs (thanks Anthony Bourdain!), history of food and cuisines, and self-help diet books. My book does not delve into these areas much. Instead, it delves deep into politics and shows that if we take a “business as usual” path of how food systems have, are, and will operate, there will be significant negative consequences on human and planetary health. It provides examples of what can be done by the various actors like government and food and agriculture industries to promote healthy, sustainable, and equitable diets, sustain the earth’s biodiversity, and protect the environment and all species living on the planet. And last, it raises readers’ food and environmental literacy and empowers readers to take immediate and long-term changes by helping them make informed decisions when they walk into restaurants, grocery stores, farmers' markets, and their kitchens.

The book changed the way I communicate my work. It is not easy to write about a complex topic like food systems and ensure that it inspires eaters, global experts in governments, and those working in and shaping food systems to make better decisions. I tried my best to bring to life some of my experiences working in different countries—from very poor to prosperous—and the experiences of those I have worked with and shared time with in deeply rural and urban pockets of the planet. It provides a nuanced story that takes you away from computer and desk research to farmer’s fields, families’ kitchens, and United Nations’ working forums.

I hope the book shows readers how our everyday diets are the products of massive, interconnected, and highly complex food systems that extend from the seedlings in a farmer’s field to the global distribution and marketing networks that deliver food to our plates. These systems have direct and substantial impacts on poverty, the planet’s natural resources, the nutrition of individuals and populations, the composition of the atmosphere, and social equity. They also are incredibly vulnerable to the climatic changes that we have already seen and that will accelerate in the future.

The lost art of reading a book

I recently did an interview for the Reading List with Phil Treagus. I am a big book fan (my better half is a book publisher and archiver) but especially books on food (go figure). I also have two books coming out this year that I am pretty excited about. The first is through Johns Hopkins University Press titled Can Fixing Dinner Fix the Planet?” The book is my own take on improving food systems and brings in a lot of my own experiences working on food issues in different places in the world. It comes out May 2021. The second book is a textbook published by Palgrave titled “Global Food Systems, Diets and Nutrition: Linking Science, Economics and Policy.” My colleague Claire Davis and I are excited to see this book out in June 2021.

This is what I had to say about books and you can also go to the original interview here.

How do you describe your occupation?

Educator and researcher of food systems.

Talk us through a typical day for you…

My day starts with a series of very early morning (begins around 5 am) zoom meetings with other researchers and organizations (UN, NGOs, etc.) working in Europe, Africa, and Asia on projects, publications, or initiatives. If I am not teaching a course that semester, I usually have one guest lecture to do and am usually on one or two public panels/webinars/keynote talks throughout the day. I try to block some time to read, write and do data analysis and, of course, to exercise (one hour a day)—usually mid-morning or late afternoon. Sometimes, I have 10-15 meetings throughout the day, so having concentrated focus time is challenging. Dinner is always the highlight of the day. We eat early, like 5:30, and my husband whips up gourmet meals. We usually watch something on Netflix or Criterion for about an hour or so. Then back at it to do a bit of writing in the early evening. I am in bed (and asleep) by 10 pm.

What are you reading at the moment, and what made you want to read it?

Science Fictions: How Fraud, Bias, Negligence, and Hype Undermine the Search for Truth by Stuart Ritchie. With so much dis- and misinformation on facts, data, and evidence, and the significant conflicts of interest in the food world, I was very keen to look inward into the science community that generates information. Where have we failed? Where are our faults? What could we do better? This book highlights the pitfalls of how we develop, communicate and vet science (with nutrition examples throughout the book) and turns the mirror on the science world. It is fantastic!

Can you remember the first book you read by yourself?

It is a toss-up. The two that stand out to me and are forever imprinted on my brain is Mrs. Frisby and the Rats of Nimh by Robert O’Brien and James and the Giant Peach by Roald Dahl. Strangely, and I haven’t thought about this until just now, both involve the food world. Mrs Frisby (a mouse) needs to move her home, which is endangered from the fields’ annual spring plowing. She asks a sophisticated bunch of rats for help. The story of James centers on a boy who enters a peach, and his world changes. Both stories highlight the magic and mysticism of ecosystems and experiences with that magic.

Are you a page folder or a bookmarker?

Page folder. But I go one step further. I fold the top of the current page I am reading so I know where I am the next time I pick up the book. I fold the page’s bottom if there is something on that page I want to go back to or research later.

Can you tell us a little more about the Global Food Security Journal?

The Journal strives to publish evidence-informed strategic views of experts from a wide range of disciplinary perspectives on prospects for ensuring food security, nutrition, and health across food system issues. We wish to publish reviews, perspectives articles, and debates that synthesize, critique and extend findings from the rapidly growing body of original publications on global food security, nutrition, food systems, and related areas; and special issues on critical topics across food security, food systems, and nutrition including how these are impacted by climate and environmental dynamics.

If you could gift yourself books at age 16 and age 25 – what would they be and why?

The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals by Michael Pollan and The End of Food by Paul Roberts. Pollan has mastered the craft of telling compelling food stories that have political, social and environmental repercussions in such an approachable way. While the book focuses mainly on the United States, it does raise questions as to the sustainability and ethics of how we grow our food and the individual dietary choices we make every day. Pollan has his fair share of critics, but I have yet to see an academic write such a compelling narrative on the fractured global food system. Paul Roberts’s book had an even deeper impact on me. It was hard to eat after reading his book because essentially, you feel the world is doomed! As Jim Morrison of The Doors sang, “the future is certain and the end is always near.” The End of Food, as the title suggests, brings those lyrics to life…

If you could invite 5 authors (dead or alive) to a dinner party – who would they be and why?

Amartya Sen (for his incredible influence on how we view poverty, famine, and human development and his many authored books including Poverty and Famine). Mark Kurlansky (for his incredible journalistic deep dives into things like Salt, Cod and Paper). Leah Penniman (author of Farming While Back and co-owner of Soul Fire Farm. A walking the talk author and entrepreneur!). Rachel Carson (for her landmark book Silent Spring that influenced the entire environmental movement). Joseph Campbell (his vast knowledge on the human experience and author of A Hero with a Thousand Faces). I highly recommend the interviews he had done towards the end of his life with Bill Moyer. After watching that, I wanted to be better at my craft.

What was the last book you purchased, and why did you buy it?

New Climate War by Michael Mann. Michael is a climatologist at Penn State. He is a clear communicator and fantastic science whose work has helped build the evidence on global warming. His new book is all about the politics of inaction on climate. In the food world, and very much tied to climate, we face similar issues of political inertia, interference and power imbalance of powerful industry players and complex scientific messages. Hopefully, I can learn something from Mann’s experience in battling the “merchants of doubt” and how he and others have fought to keep the evidence of climate change on the top of the global agenda.

What is your favourite thing about reading?

The quiet time and the ability to reflect on other’s views, worlds, and perspectives. I also find that I like the feel, experience, and act of reading an actual book as opposed to an e-book or an audiobook.

What’s the best book you’ve read in the last 6 months?

The Fire Next Time by James Baldwin. Written in 1962 but felt like it was written in 2020.

In your Twitter bio you describe yourself as a ‘goat lover’, I have to ask you to elaborate on this…

Goats are just so cool. Resilient, smart, and independent. And did you know they can surf? My husband and I even keep a blog, named “Goat Rodeo.” Speaking of books, there is a great book about goats entitled Goat Song by Brad Kessler who leaves New York City with this partner to go raise Nubian goats in Vermont.

If you could insert yourself into any book, which would you pick and why?

This is a tough one! Maybe Rats: Observations on the History and Habitat of the City’s Most Unwanted Inhabitants by Robert Sullivan. Robert would roam the city streets of New York in the silence and darkness of night observing what rats would feast on, and how they lived their lives. I am disgusted by but fascinated with these resilient little creatures and it would have been fun to spend a year doing this sort of rodential research. Turns out their diets are a lot like humans…they like junk food.

What is the book that you feel has had the single biggest impact on your life? What impact did it have?

This is really a tough one. I want to say Ulysses by James Joyce but that is a total lie. Perhaps Silent Spring by Rachel Carson. As a trained molecular nutritionist, it upended the way I think about food, human health and environmental sustainability. I pulled my head out of the petri dish and have focused much more on their connections and the macro- long view of food systems and how and where they fit into sustainable development.

If you could only own three cookbooks, which would you pick and why?

Anything by Alice Waters but especially The Art of Simple Cooking. She lays out the necessities of cookware, ingredients and basic recipes you need to at least feel like you are cooking organic, wholesome food straight out of the 1970s Berkeley. She also just propels food and cooking to an art form. Bibi’s Kitchen because it highlights the diversity of Africa’s cuisine told through and shared by grandmothers. Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat: Mastering the Elements of Good Cooking by Samin Nosrat. She makes cooking so approachable.

Are there any books you haven’t mentioned that you feel would make your reading list?

I’d also include:

Chronicles by Bob Dylan,
Just Kids by Patti Smith (I am a big fan of music books),
Salt Sugar Fat by Michael Moss,
Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef by Gabrielle Hamilton,
Food Politics and Soda Politics by Marion Nestle (see our interview with Marion Nestle),
Mass Starvation by Alex De Waal,
One Day I will Write About this Place by Binyavanga Wainaina,
Four Fish by Paul Greenberg,
Sweetness and Power by Sidney Mintz,
The Wizard and the Prophet by Charles Mann,
and The Way we Eat Now by Bee Wilson.

Which book sat on your shelf are you most excited about reading next and why?

The Secret Life of Groceries by Benjamin Lorr. I love the premise of this book. The author takes the reader through the inner workings of the nebulous supermarket that has become the powerhouse influencer on our diets. I am sort of scared though. I have a feeling I am going to never want to set foot in a supermarket again after reading this. Much like how I felt after reading Fast Food Nation by Eric Schlosser. I have yet to eat at McDonald’s (not that I really want to) since reading that book…